Crafters
Quilting · article

Binding a quilt

How to cut, join and sew binding, how wide to cut the strips, and how to finish mitred corners and the join.

Updated 30 Sep 2026 · 5 min read

Binding is the narrow strip of fabric that wraps the raw edges of the quilt sandwich. It is the last step, and it gives the quilt a finished edge that will take years of handling. Good binding is a matter of measuring, cutting strips to the right width and sewing with even tension.

Choosing the width

Double-fold binding is the standard. A strip is folded in half along its length and sewn to the front of the quilt, then turned to the back. Commonly the strip is cut 2.25 to 2.5 inches wide, giving a finished binding of about three eighths of an inch to half an inch. For a thick quilt, such as one made with flannel or a high-loft batting, cut 2.5 inches. For thin quilts, 2.25 inches is neat. A single-fold binding is cut 1.25 inches and works on thin wall hangings.

How much to cut

Measure the perimeter of the quilt: twice the width plus twice the length. Add about 12 inches for corners and the join. Divide by the usable width of fabric, about 40 inches, to find how many strips are needed, and round up. For example, a 60 x 72 quilt has a perimeter of 264 inches; plus 12 is 276; divided by 40 is 6.9, so 7 strips.

The binding calculator gives the number of strips and the yardage for a given quilt size, for straight-grain or bias binding. The quilt size database lists the standard sizes so you can plug in a bed quilt without measuring.

Straight grain or bias

Straight-grain binding is cut along the width of the fabric and uses less. It is fine for quilts with straight edges. Bias binding is cut at 45 degrees to the threads, uses around 50 percent more fabric, and is essential for curved or scalloped edges, since it stretches around curves. Bias is also often chosen for quilts that will see heavy use, since the threads do not all lie along the edge and the strain is spread out. Stripes and plaids cut on the bias make chevron patterns.

Joining the strips

  1. Trim the ends of each strip square.
  2. Place two strips at right angles, right sides together, with the ends forming an L.
  3. Draw a line from the inside corner across the overlap to the outer corner, and sew on the line.
  4. Trim the seam to a quarter inch and press it open.
  5. Continue until the strip is long enough, then fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.

Diagonal joins spread the bulk, which a straight joint cannot do, and they are almost invisible in the folded binding.

Squaring up the quilt

Before binding, trim the quilt to square. Use a long ruler and rotary cutter to cut the edges straight and the corners true, leaving the batting and backing flush with the top. Trim off the excess but leave the batting extending no more than an eighth of an inch beyond the seam, if you would like a fuller binding.

Sewing the binding on

  1. Begin a few inches from a corner on one side. Leave a tail of about 8 inches unsewn at the start.
  2. Line up the raw edges of the binding with the raw edge of the quilt top.
  3. Sew with a quarter-inch seam, using a walking foot to keep the layers from shifting.
  4. Stop a quarter inch from the first corner with the needle down.

Mitring the corner

  1. Fold the binding up and away from the quilt, making a 45 degree fold.
  2. Fold it back down along the edge, so the fold is even with the top edge of the quilt.
  3. Start stitching at the top edge of the fold, continue down the next side, and repeat at each corner.

Finishing the join

Stop about 12 inches before the start. Lay the ends over one another, and trim the overlap to be exactly the width of your binding strip. Open the two ends, sew them right sides together on the diagonal, trim and press, then fold the binding in half again and sew the gap closed.

Turning to the back

Fold the binding over the edge to the back so the fold covers the stitching line. Pin or clip it in place. Sew by hand with a blind stitch, catching a thread of the backing and a thread of the fold, about one stitch per quarter inch. Or sew by machine from the front, stitching in the ditch next to the binding, which catches the back edge for a quick finish. At each corner, fold the binding into a mitre on the back and stitch the small fold closed.

Common problems

ProblemCauseFix
Binding not fullStrip too narrow or edge trimmed too closeCut 2.5 inches and leave batting
Wavy edgeBinding stretched while sewingLet the walking foot feed it
Corner gapsFold not alignedRedo the fold at 45 degrees
Join thickStraight seamUse a diagonal join

Precut jelly roll strips of 2.5 inches can be used as binding, since the width is ready to go, and the precuts database shows how many are in a roll.