Cross stitch is worked on fabric with an even grid of holes or threads to count. Three types cover nearly every project: aida, evenweave and linen. They all give the same chart-to-cloth result, but they differ in how you place the stitches, how fine the work can be, and how the finished piece looks.
Aida
Aida is a block weave. Threads are grouped in bundles, and the gaps between the bundles form clear holes. Each stitch goes from hole to hole, and each cross covers one square of the weave. The count is the number of squares per inch: 14-count aida has 14 squares per inch, so a chart of 140 stitches is 10 inches wide.
Aida is the easiest to start with. The holes are easy to see, the fabric is stiff enough to hold without a hoop for small pieces, and there is no counting of threads. Its drawbacks are the visible holes between stitches, which show as a grid when a piece is stitched with few strands, and a limited size range: from 6-count to 22-count. The aida counts database lists the stitches per inch and per 10 cm for each size.
Evenweave
Evenweave has the same number of threads per inch in both directions, woven singly and evenly. There are no bundles. You place stitches over two threads each way, so a 28-count evenweave gives 14 stitches per inch, the same as 14-count aida. The fabric drapes better and the finished stitches sit closer together, giving a smoother, more solid look.
The work is harder to start, because you must count threads rather than use holes. Evenweave is softer, so it needs a hoop or frame to keep the tension. It is a good choice for pieces with detail such as portraits, and for work that will be framed, where the cloth is meant to look woven.
Linen
Linen is made from flax, and its threads are uneven in thickness, which gives it a slubbed, textured appearance. It is counted over two threads like evenweave, so a 32-count linen gives 16 stitches per inch. The stitches look hand-made, and the uneven threads add character. Linen is the most costly and the most difficult to count, because some threads are thicker and some thinner and they can be hard to see. Most stitchers choose linen for samplers and heirloom pieces.
Comparing the stitch count
| Fabric | Count | Stitches per inch | Stitched over |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aida | 14 | 14 | 1 square |
| Aida | 18 | 18 | 1 square |
| Evenweave | 28 | 14 | 2 threads |
| Linen | 32 | 16 | 2 threads |
| Linen | 36 | 18 | 2 threads |
The rule for any fabric stitched over two threads is to divide the fabric count by two to get stitches per inch. The chart size calculator gives the finished size of a chart on any fabric count, and the amount of fabric to cut, so that you can compare the same chart on 14-count aida and 28-count evenweave.
Strands
The number of strands of embroidery floss depends on the fabric count and on the look you want. A typical guide is two strands on 14-count aida, three on 11-count, one on 18-count. On evenweave and linen, use two strands over two threads for a count of 28, and one on 32 or 36. More strands cover the fabric more fully. The thread estimator gives metres of floss and skeins needed for a stitch count at a fabric count and a strand number.
Which to start on
For a first project, use 14-count aida in white or cream. The holes are large and the floss fills them well. After a few pieces, try 16-count aida or 28-count evenweave, to see whether finer work suits you. Linen is for when you want the fabric to be part of the look.
Colour and finish
Aida comes in many colours, including white, cream, black and hand-dyed shades, so the ground colour of a chart can be changed by choosing the fabric. Evenweave and linen are sold in natural shades, in whites and in dyed variants. A dark fabric gives a more striking result with pale thread and the stitches show up well, but the chart's colours may shift on a dark ground, so try a few stitches first.
Stability
Aida has a finishing starch that stiffens it, so it can be worked in hand without a hoop. The stiffness relaxes as it is stitched. Evenweave and linen are soft, and will stretch out of shape unless held in a hoop or a scroll frame. Always finish the edges of any fabric, by folding masking tape along the edge, stitching with a zigzag, or overlocking, since all three fray when handled.
Sizing
Cut at least 3 inches extra on each side of the finished size. That gives room for framing and for the fabric held in the hoop. If you are unsure, use the chart size calculator, which includes the margin in its fabric recommendation.