A cross stitch is two diagonal stitches crossing in an X. The order in which you make the two halves affects speed, neatness and the back of the work. Two methods are in common use and either gives a good result if the top stitches all slant the same way.
The rule that matters
Whichever method you use, every stitch on the piece must have its top diagonal going the same direction, usually from bottom-left to top-right. Mixed directions show as light and dark patches because the thread catches the light differently, giving a subtle shimmer that looks like error. Decide before starting, and keep to it for the whole project.
Cross by cross
Make each full X before moving on.
- Bring the needle up at the bottom left of the square.
- Go down at the top right, making the bottom diagonal.
- Come up at the bottom right, and go down at the top left, making the top diagonal.
This is the faster method for a small number of stitches in a colour, for single isolated stitches and for work on stretchy fabric. The back of the work is a set of vertical lines.
The Danish method
Also called the row method. Work a row of half stitches in one direction, then return working the other half and cross them.
- Work a row of bottom diagonals from left to right, each going up at the bottom left and down at the top right.
- Return from right to left, making the top diagonal of each stitch by coming up at the bottom right and down at the top left.
It is quicker for long runs of the same colour, each thread lies parallel to its neighbours, the tension is more even and the back shows tidy diagonal or horizontal lines. It is the usual method for charts with large blocks of one colour, such as backgrounds.
Tension and stitch evenness
Pull the thread until the stitch lies flat, but not so tight that it buckles the fabric or distorts the hole. The tension must be the same for every stitch. A common trick is to let the needle hang and untwist the floss every few stitches, since twisted floss forms thin, rope-like stitches and does not cover the fabric. Laying the thread flat with a needle or a stitching tool as it is pulled through also helps the strands to fill the hole.
Working with a hoop
Stretch the fabric in a hoop or frame so it is taut but not drum-tight. Stitch with a stab method if you use a frame: push the needle straight up from the back, pull through, then push it down from the front. It is slower but ensures that the thread does not drag across the fabric.
Starting a section
Begin in the middle of the chart, or at a point where a long run of a colour can be stitched. Working from the centre lets you check that the design is placed properly. The guide on finding the centre of the fabric and the chart covers how to locate it.
Parking
If a colour appears in several places close together, you can "park" the thread: leave it at the edge of the area and pick it up later. When you need to move the thread across a gap, run it under the stitches on the back for no more than two or three stitches. For longer gaps, end the thread and start a new one. Long runs on the back show through the front on light fabric and can catch.
Counting
Always count from a known point, such as the centre lines or the last completed block, and check the count for each row. Mistakes in the count are the main reason for unpicking. Most charts are divided into 10 by 10 squares by heavier lines, and a stitched area that lines up with the gridlines is easy to check. Mark finished rows on your own copy of the chart with a pencil or highlighter.
Backstitch and other finishing stitches
Backstitch for outlines and lettering is worked after the cross stitches are in place, using one strand, so the lines sit clear of the cross stitches. The backstitch follows the lines of the chart, one thread at a time.
Choosing the direction of the row
Work in the direction that feels natural for your hand. Right-handed stitchers often work rows from right to left for the top diagonals. The stitched result is identical.
Threads
The thread colours database lists each colour by number, name and hex value, and each family such as pink, blue and green. When you change colour, it helps to have the floss organised on a holder with the number written beside each. The chart size calculator can show what finished size your stitch count will reach at the fabric count you are using.