A chart that is stitched off-centre leaves one margin too small for the frame and the other too large. Finding the middle before the first stitch keeps the design square on the cloth, and it gives you a place to check the count as you go.
Decide the cloth size
The finished design measures the stitch count divided by the stitches per inch. A chart that is 140 stitches wide on 14-count aida is 10 inches wide. The chart size calculator gives both dimensions for any fabric count. Add 3 inches all around for framing and for holding the fabric in a hoop, so a 10 x 8 inch design needs cloth 16 x 14 inches. Generous margins are cheap; a margin that is too small cannot be repaired.
For evenweave and linen, stitched over two threads, the stitches per inch are half the fabric count, which the chart size calculator also handles. The aida counts database lists the stitches per inch for every fabric count.
Find the chart centre
Most charts have arrows on the edges showing the centre row and the centre column. If they are missing, count the squares across and divide by two. If the width is an even number, the centre falls between two columns; for an odd number, it is the middle square. Mark the same way for the rows. Where the centre row and the centre column meet is the centre of the design.
Draw the lines with a pencil on a copy of the chart or use a transparent ruler. On a chart with heavy lines every 10 squares, the centre is easiest to spot by counting from the nearest heavy line.
Find the fabric centre
Fold the fabric in half, then in half again, and the point where the two folds cross is the centre. Press lightly or mark with a pin. A quicker approach is to mark the centre with a line of basting stitches running across the middle of the cloth in both directions, which makes a grid that can be removed when the piece is finished. On aida, count the squares along each edge and mark the middle of each.
For large pieces, add basting lines every 10 squares from the centre. They match the heavy lines on the chart, and so you can check your position on the cloth against the chart at a glance.
Where to start
There are three common starting points.
- The centre. It ensures the design is placed properly, and errors in count will show early, but the stitching area is surrounded by blank fabric, which makes it harder to hold.
- The top left. Stitching begins at a corner of the design and works across and down. It is easy to follow on the chart, but a count error at the start carries through to the end.
- The largest block of colour. Stitch an outline or a large area first, then fill in. It gives you landmarks for the smaller areas.
The most dependable is to begin at the centre, stitch the first area, and then build outward, checking the count against the chart's grid at each step.
Keep track on the chart
Mark the stitches you have done on a photocopy, using a pencil or a highlighter. On a digital chart, use the marking tool or overlay. Mark each section as you finish it, so you always know where you stopped. Some stitchers work in blocks of 10 by 10, matching the heavy lines.
Threads for the start
Cut floss in lengths of about 18 inches, the length of your forearm; longer lengths tangle and fray. Separate the six strands and recombine the number you need. The fabric count decides how many: see the fabric count guide on this site for the usual numbers. To estimate how many skeins a project will take, use the thread estimator, which gives the metres of floss and the skeins needed for a stitch count.
First stitches
Start without a knot. Bring the needle up from the back, leaving a tail of about an inch, and hold it on the back as you stitch the first few stitches over it. This locks the tail in place, so there is no bump on the front. Finish by running the tail under the stitches on the back.
Checking the placement
After the first few rows, check that your stitches match the chart. Measure from the centre to a prominent landmark on the chart and the same number of squares on the fabric. A mismatch of one stitch now is easy to fix; in 500 stitches it is painful. Count the squares between landmarks such as the edge of a shape and the next.
Orienting the fabric
Keep the fabric in the same orientation as the chart, top at the top. If you have a directional fabric, such as a hand-dyed piece with lines, put the lines horizontally so they do not interfere with the design. When you rotate the work to reach a corner, rotate the chart to match.